Some journeys take us far far away from home yet leave the most profound impact on our souls. One such fantastic journey was to Lake Titicaca, one I will cherish the most from my Peru trip. However, I will talk about this journey later in my blog and let me first introduce you to the less known but magnificent and unique, Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca, straddled between the Peruvian and Bolivian borders is tucked in one of the remotest and most picturesque regions in the Andean Highlands. It is the largest lake in South America.
The most extraordinary thing about Lake Titicaca is its floating Islands and the indigenous pre-Inca people, the Uros people, who have lived on these islands for centuries. It is home to hundreds of small human-made islands popularly known as the Uros Floating Islands which are made entirely of totora reeds, a kind of plant that only grows in and around Lake Titicaca, mostly in the shallow, swampy areas. Not only the islands but they also build their houses on it with the same totora-reed. Can you imagine???
About 4,000 people are living on the islands in the middle of the lake. The daily life and history of the Uros people of Lake Titicaca are intriguing and unlike any other in the world. Not the first thing that would come to your mind while planning your trip to Peru, but trust me, this place is too unrealistic to miss.
Do You Know?- Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake (3,812 m/12,507 ft above sea level) in the world, meaning it is the highest lake on the planet which allows commercial vehicles on it.
Where to Stay?
There are a couple of options to choose from; either you can stay in the city of Puno or on the Uros floating islands on the lake itself. There are several hotel options in Puno, and most of them are quite close to the main square. You can find many good and cost-friendly options on Airbnb including the ones on Uros Floating Islands. Click to get up to $55 off on Airbnb.
For a more luxury and comfort stay, you can stay at either Tititlaka Hotel or GHL Hotel Lago Titicaca. But, the best of all is Titicaca Lodge Peru right on one of the private Uros Floating Islands. It won't create a hole in your pocket and will still leave you romancing for your entire stay.
Uros Floating Homestay- Titicaca Lodge Peru
Staying in the Titicaca Lodge Peru was the highlight of our Titicaca trip. From the prime position of this private island, jutting out into Lake Titicaca to the exquisite decor of the rooms, everything is so classic about this place. The best part about this floating island is that it has beautiful views isolated from the bustle of the main tourist area of other Uros Floating Islands. A local Aymaran family owns it, and the hosts Armando & Julio, and their entire family make you feel at home right from the moment you step on their boat.
A relief about staying with them is that they provide pick and drop service from the train/bus station or any other place in Puno. An agent was standing outside the Puno train station with my name on a placard to greet us, and he drove us for 20 min to the lakeshore. There, our host, Armando, was waiting for us in a motorboat at the shore. He put our bags in the boat, and we started towards our lodge on the floating island under the pitch-black sky.
As we passed through the dramatic narrow passageways between the totora reeds, which we could hardly see since there was absolute darkness, a chilly breeze hit my face, and I could already feel the magic in the air. It was quite cold since the night had already set, and the temperatures were low. I was super excited that we were finally going not only to see but live on the floating island for two days. The journey took about 20-25 minutes until Armando docked the boat and his brother, Julio, who was waiting for us at the island, helped us get off the boat and also took care of our luggage.
It felt a bit bouncy when we first stepped onto the island, but our host informed us that we would feel it for a while before we get used to it and that's precisely what happened.😀 But it was an incredible feeling since we had never experienced something like it before.
Julio then gave us a tour of our room, and we were overwhelmed by the first glimpse of our room. The elegant, rustic and traditional furnishings in the room, large floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto the lake, a private terrace with astonishing views and not to forget a spacious & gorgeous bathroom, all felt like a dream come true. I was sold at that very moment. It was quite difficult for us to imagine how they had managed to build such beautiful & luxury rooms on a small island made entirely of the reed.
Note- The Deluxe Corner Suite cost us 200$. I booked with them directly over the phone and got a 20$ discount and a free pick and drop service from the train station. If you book from booking.com, that cost is extra. The booking also includes a lot of excursions and all three meals of the day irrespective of where you book it from.
As hungry as we were, we quickly freshened up and followed Julio to the dining room when he informed us that the dinner was ready. He served us a typical Peruvian meal bursting with local flavours, but first, we had a delicious hot soup along with some fresh pieces of bread(No Peruvian meal is complete without a bowl of soup). Everything from the presentation to the actual taste of the food was terrific. I was quite literally not expecting this kind of service when I made the booking but, yeah, everything was more than perfect for an island like this!😍
Since it was already dark, we could not enjoy the lake view, but we were super stoked to see what it looks like in the morning. Although it was freezing in the night, the room was hot and the bed even more so. Julio kept hot water bottles under our blankets for us to have a good nights sleep. I slept with layers but had to remove them in the middle of the night.
In the morning, it felt alive to wake up to nothing but tranquillity, the sound of chirping birds, and the silence of the vast lake. We spent a good part of our morning feasting our eyes with the beautiful sunrise, the azure water of the lake and dazzling views all around. That said, the sunrises and sunsets on Lake Titicaca are exceptional; bright, red and rusty and to see them from the comfort of your patio bed is an experience like none other.
There were many activities included in our stay like kayaking, canoeing, a totora reed boat tour, Uros Floating island tour, to name a few. But we decided to skip canoeing since we had already been doing it a lot this summer and went on for the other ones which we had never experienced in our life. Read my blog "Banff Adventure-Canoeing in the world's most beautiful lake"
After we had a delicious breakfast, we indulged in a lot of activities starting with a 1-hour totora reed boat tour. The reed boat is self-made by the locals with the dried reeds. It was so much fun to be able to ride in that boat. Julio took us close to where the totora reeds grow and shared information about how the locals harvest the reeds and use them for various purposes, of course, the most critical being making the floating islands. He is an amazing guide besides being an excellent host and even told us about his family history and how proud he is of his cultural heritage and traditions.
Next, we hopped onto a fancy boat for a ride to some of the other Uros Floating Islands and spent the next few hours exploring the tiny islands, a school, hospital, and a tennis court. Yep, all of that on these islands. We also visited an indigenous Aymara family who lives on one of those islands. We spent an hour with them, and they even taught us fishing in their unique way. It was a fascinating experience to get to know them, their day-to-day life, and how they have adapted to this unique environment in their creative approaches.
It was a different experience which left us mesmerizing for the rest of our trip. We couldn't have expected a more warm and welcoming stay.
Tips for staying on the Floating Islands
The weather is cold, almost year-round. Winters(May-October) are dry with freezing nights and mornings but warm afternoons while summers see rains in the afternoon on most of the days. So, pack accordingly and dress in layers. The sun is a bit harsh at this altitude.
Carry all medicines you might need, including Ibuprofen(helps in acclimatizing) since you will be on a secluded island if you are doing a homestay and access to a pharmacy or doctor, won't be easy.
No trash is left on the islands. The toilets here are eco-toilets, and everything is taken back to the mainland. You must be mindful of the surroundings too and do not leave your trash behind.
Carry extra batteries for all types of camera equipment you are carrying since you would be clicking thousands of pictures here and the electricity is limited on these islands. Charging multiple things can be a hassle.
Carry some warm clothing(warm socks too), especially for the night.
Bring enough cash with you since there are no ATMs on the islands.
It's always a nice gesture to get some stationery or food for the children on the islands. However, chocolates are a big no-no since they have limited access to doctors on the islands and no dentist for that matter. A small help in any way to these people goes a long way since the Uro people are mostly dependent on tourism. Fishing and hunting were something they relied on in earlier years but it has taken a back seat now.
How to visit Uros Floating Islands if not staying on the islands?
If you plan to stay in the city of Puno, you can still take a boat tour from Puno's port. There are several tour operators and will take you to the islands for about 25$ per person. However, you have to be careful in choosing the tour operators, as many visitors complain of very touristic and commercial experience, and also of being forced to buy souvenirs from the Uro people. Going with the right guide makes all the difference when visiting these islands. I would highly recommend staying on one of the islands for an authentic experience. You can also visit the nearby Taquile and Amantani islands if you have more time.
How to reach Puno or Lake Titicaca?
There are three options to reach Puno, by bus, train, or flight. The cheapest option is the bus, but it's going to be a very long journey. It will cost you around 15-20$ on one side. The next most affordable option is flight, and it will also save you a lot of time. It will cost you anywhere from 80-150$. The closest airport to Puno is in the nearby city of Juliaca, 45 minutes from Puno. And strangely, the most expensive but the best option is the train. Well, not so strange because it's not your everyday train but a luxury one. It comes at a very high price- 250$ per person on one side but very well worth it.
Perurail Titicaca Train
One of the most scenic in the world, this luxury train is inspired by the elegance of the 1920s-style Pullman carriages. It crosses the Peruvian Andes between Cusco and Puno, making it an unforgettable experience. We had been long desiring a scenic train journey, so, when I learned about this train service from Cusco to Puno, I was super stoked to be a part of it and immediately booked our tickets for the Titicaca train. Also, I realized later what a perfect gift it was to our tired bodies from back to back hiking in the Sacred Valley.🙂
The train leaves from the Wanchaq station in Cusco. We arrived half an hour before the departure time and checked in our luggage which was a hassle-free process. The waiting room is fancy with complimentary tea and coffee. Each group is escorted personally by a crew member from the waiting room to their assigned cars and table, and local musicians play in the background as you board the train. Now, that feels royal.
We were wonderstruck on seeing the interiors of the car. The train car is decorated in 1920s Pullman style glamour and the fresh-cut flowers on each table added a regal touch. The train comprises of a kitchen, two dining cars, one luggage car, a bar car, and an open-air observation car. The washrooms are also as classy as you would expect for a luxurious train like this.
The observation car was my favourite part of the train; it's a dream for photographers keen to capture the quintessential panoramas. I spent the majority of my time hanging out in the observation deck soaking in the phenomenal views with other fellow travellers from around the world.
The meal service includes a welcome hot drink, a 3-course gourmet lunch with a non-alcoholic beverage or a glass of red/white wine followed by evening tea, coffee, or chocolate. Alcohol is also available for purchase in the bar car.
The total journey time is about 10 hours 30 minutes, but the time passes by in the blink of an eye. The train passes along the Urubamba river for the first few hours, and then the landscape changes vastly as the journey continues. We saw a lot of countryside, villages, farms, mountains, and whatnot.
The train service features live Peruvian music, traditional dance performances, band performances, and fashion show onboard the Titicaca train. The train stops only once at La Raya, a small town at the height of 14271 ft, the highest elevation on the route between Cusco and Puno. Passengers are allowed to deboard the train here for 10-15 minutes and check out the market put up by the Andean vendors to sell their local crafts. The scenery here is incredibly beautiful and majestic with mountain ranges all around, and the air feels so fresh and thin. It was a perfect spot for a journey break even if it was a short one.
Besides the charming views, a highlight of this journey was going through the town of Juliaca. It’s a Peruvian city, 45 minutes away from Puno. Juliaca is a commercial hub and not a town that attracts tourists. The train passes straight through the city’s central market, and the locals sell everything right on the train tracks, from vegetables and fruits to books and everything else. Everything is placed right between the tracks, so they don’t have to be moved when the train goes by. It was quite amazing to watch the shopkeepers uncover their products as the train crossed their own space. Some locals and children even smiled and waved at other passengers standing in the observatory as the train passed by and us. What a sweet gesture!🙂
After this, our servers served the evening tea and snacks, and the most beautiful journey ever came to an end.
Know Before You Go
The train runs only on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from Cusco to Puno and on Monday, Thursday and Saturday from Puno to Cusco. Plan accordingly.
There is no baggage limit on the Titicaca train. They have a separate luggage car. However, you can carry important stuff with you in the dining car. You will be given luggage tags for your checked-in bags, and once you de-board the train in Puno, you get your luggage back in exchange for the tags.
It would be best if you carried Ibuprofen. The train passes through the highest elevation of 4200m on the journey, and you might find it challenging to acclimatize if you have not acclimatized well before the trip.
There is no breakfast included, but you can always purchase a sandwich or something from the dining menu.
I have provided all the information to the best of my knowledge but let me know if you have any questions regarding Lake Titicaca in the comments section and I would love to answer them.
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